France 2007 - the Basque Country

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The Basque Country
Driving south the countryside became more interesting and we suddenly arrived at La Bastide Clairence a typical Basque town (one of the Plus Beaux villages) with many traditional maroon coloured half timbered houses and a collonaded square. Having had an instant of panic as we drove through seeing the old woman standing in the road (in fact a very realistic cardboard advertising sign for the Basque Macarons shop), we parked in the square and strolled through the old streets to the large church with galleried graveyard, passing the épicerie shop with pimentos drying above the entrance
was that person real? This area was so different to other regions of France that we stayed several days parking at the aire at the lake near St Pée-sur-Nivelle. Other places we visited were the Basque villages of Ainhoa and Sare and on a rare sunny morning we took an excellent trip on the electric cog railway built in 1924 to the summit of La Rhune (€13 each) where the views to the Pyrenees and coast were outstanding. This is a very popular trip and as we saw the crowds at the terminus we wondered how long we would have to wait but at busy times they run two trains about 50 yards apart (but it all closes for two hours at lunchtime at least in May). Feeling lazy we took the return train down rather than the long walk. At the summit there was the usual untidy structures of radio masts but also vultures, sheep and wild Pottok ponies unique to this area Pottok ponies on La Rhune After driving up the narrow Col d'Ibardin to the Spanish border and a mini Andorra with lots of shops selling alcohol and tobacco at a discount and full of tourist coaches we drove the short distance to the coast staying at Urrugne and visiting St Jean de Luz with its old town centre, fascinating church with a very ornate interior and a doorway bricked up after the marriage of King Louis XIV and Marie Therése so that no-one else would use it. blocked doorway at St Jean de Luz St Jean de Luz church interior Biarritz looked a smart resort despite the wet weather but we didn't stay there for long before heading towards Bayonne on very busy roads and built up areas to refill our LPG tank and then back along quieter country roads. A feature of this Basque region is its unique language and there were many signs including road signs with strange words and lettering Basque lettering sign There were many surfers of all abilities at all the resorts along this coast as far as Hendaye on the Spanish border with its large flat sandy and windswept beach, hotels and casinos and several camper vans (mostly surfers and us - at least for tea) parked on the prom despite the no Camping-car signs	La Bastide Clairence épicerie with drying pimentos Sare - town square La Rhune cog railway St Jean de Luz seafront Biarritz harbour
As planned we crossed into Northern Spain and along the Costa Verde for a few days before heading inland to search for the sun.
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