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  France 2006 - the Southern Alps

 

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France  - the Southern Alps

Passing Lac de Serre-Ponçon, the largest reservoir in Europe (by volume) we stopped to look at the Demoiselles Coiffées, strange eroded rock formations of which there are several in this region, and after a lazy day enjoying the warm sunshine overlooking the lake we drove east along the Ubaye Valley to Barcelonnette, a busy touristy town where we were unable to locate the aire at the aerodrome (now closed ) and after a brief walk around the town continued further east to find another aire at Jausiers with a broken Flot Bleu service point but as it was getting late would do for the night so we parked up along with three other motorhomes. We didn't take to this area especially so the next day drove back east passing an aire with waste dump (scruffy loos so decided not to use the fresh water tap) at le Lauzet-Ubaye, and then south noticing a distinctive change to the red and ochre colours of the buildings indicating we were entering the Provence region and on to Digne-les-Bains another busy but attractive town with welcoming shady streets. We managed to find a bookshop that sold the Michelin green guides in English (we hadn't planned to tour this area originally so hadn't brought many France guidebooks with us. They were also considerably cheaper than the UK price!). After a quick study of the maps and site guide books we decided to head for St André-les-Alpes through the attractive valleys often alongside the narrow gauge Train des Pignes that runs from Nice to Digne. 


     aire at St André-les-Alpes
      aire at St André-les-Alpes

 Lac de Serre-Ponçon
Lac de Serre-Ponçon

Demoiselles Coiffées
Demoiselles Coiffées

Parked up for lunch 
Parked up for lunch

 


St André-les-Alpes was a small town with some old streets and a trompe-d'oeil shop window.and had a good free aire/parking area well signposted in the town (jeton for Flot Bleau was 3€ from tourist office or bars). Although there was plenty of room a French camping-cariste still managed to park in the adjacent bay and proceed to sit outside and  listen to a World cup football match on his tranny. I don't think they realise the door on a UK 'van is on the opposite side; perhaps a rollout awning may help to stake out our pitch in these situations. It also had very bright floodlighting! As we left in the morning his wife muttered about the trail of water coming from underneath our van but I had just filled up the fresh water tank and we were parked on a slope. I did my best to explain in broken French but she wasn't convinced about the habits of the British! 

    Trompe d'oeil shop window St Andre
    Trompe d'oeil shop window St Andre


Just south of here was the northern end of the Lac de Castillon, where several motorhomes were parked. The road east passed through several rocky gorges emerging at the turning to Annot a very attractive old village where we discovered a pleasant aire in the woods to the west of the village square. There were interesting narrow streets with fountains, passageways and typical Provençale house fronts with a chaotic array of doors, windows and flowers. There are interesting rock formations in the hills overlooking the village but it was too hot for long walks.        


Annot town square
Annot town square


fountain in Annot
fountain in Annot

typical Provencale house - Annot
typical Provençale house - Annot
 
The next day was even hotter as we continued east heading for Entrevaux. As the main road crossed the River Var we spotted a sign to Camping du Brec, an ACSI discount site so turned up the narrow lane and found a pleasant campsite run by a Dutch couple, with a swimming and boating lake and some welcome shade. It was about 3km to Entrevaux another interesting walled village with a Vauban built citadel overlooking the valley up a steep zig-zag path from the village. 

    
Entrevaux pretty back street
         Entrevaux pretty back street

After a pleasant evening stroll around the town we watched as two passengers alighted from the last train of the day from Nice. It is possible to take a vintage steam hauled train along this 20km stretch of the track between Puget-Théniers and Annot on Sundays (link for details)

Entrevaux town entrance
Entrevaux town entrance


Entrevaux and path to citadel
Entrevaux and path to citadel


Train des Pignes at Entrevaux
Train des Pignes at Entrevaux 


Entrevaux windows
Entrevaux windows

We now turned west to the Canyon de Verdon and lavender fields of Provence

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West to Provence >>

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