Leaving Rømø we drove north along the coast and diverted through a small village, with another white church, to reach the causeway across to the small flat island of Mandø, but turned back as the road beacame a rough track, with warning signs about the tides. We could have crossed on the Mandø traktor-bus which only ran a couple of times a day in the low season, and there were very few tourists around.
    We continued on narrow back roads to Ribe, the oldest town in Denmark, with its large cathedral, surrounded by a maze of medieval streets. We stayed at the large campsite just north of the centre, with many static vans and chalets and a unique rotating turntable caravan pitch to make the most of the sun. The site wifi was by a remote LAN adaptor, but luckily connecting it to my Zoom travel modem enabled us to use our tablets. Another feature we came across was the large undercover communal cooking and eating area, with gas hobs provided. The town centre was worth strolling around with many distinctive house doors, and other architectural features including windows with curved panes of glass. We also came across an attractive flood marker on the quayside. Unfortunately the main square and the cathedral were being extensively rebuilt, but we found some interesting small shops to browse in before returning to the campsite.

We left the next morning after using the site's  excellent free motorhome service point. Although they accepted the fees in Euro notes we were given the change in Krone. We drove east along empty roads, and reached the outskirts of Kolding, where we joined the busy ring road and headed for the Danish Design Museum at Trapholt, overlooking a fjord. Using the satnav as the road signs are "economical" in Denmark, we had to cross three lanes of a main road to turn left at a junction, and found that Danish drivers were very reluctant to give way despite our signalling and slowing down to a crawl. We eventually found the modern museum in a housing estate.  There were several galleries with Danish chairs by famous designers as well as some quirky modern paintings, sculptures and fashion displays including suits made from packaging.


After a couple of hours we had seen most of the exhibits and although there was an outdoor sculpture park, access was only by guided tours at set times, so we drove through the centre of Kolding by the waterside quays, and headed south across some low hills (at last), to another ACSI discount campsite situated down a wooded valley at Grønninghoved Strand, again mostly static vans where we were the only touring van in for the night. A short stroll along the beach was enough as it was rather cool and damp. From the "children playing" sign, Danish must be a difficult language to learn.
The next day we decided to head back south to Germany, and called in to the small town of Christiansfeld, an austere town built of yellow brick buildings, set out in a grid of tree lined streets, by followers of the Moravian church in the late eighteenth century. The shops mostly sold gifts, clothes and the local delicacy of honey and gingerbread biscuits. As we entered the town we came across a procession of  nursery children dressed up as Vikings, in an amazing range of large prams and bicycle buggies. They were then enjoying rides around the town in a horse drawn wagon (Their mums must be fit but at least it's flat around here). After a lunch stop we drove down to the German border just north of Flensburg.